Men’s shirts, women’s fetishes

A blank page for many designers who are constantly reinventing it, the white shirt – an iconic piece of the men’s wardrobe – also seduces all women, in its original’s a men’s shirt in beautiful white poplin, we added gathers and fullness to the armholes, then lowered the hem to mid-calf and pleated all around. The resulting shirt dress, which opens the show, is stunningly beautiful. In his note of intent, the artistic director explains that he sought the paradox: “To reduce universal pieces like the white shirt to their simplest expression and, at the same time, to transform them into something extraordinary.” The Italian company’s collection includes some fifteen variations, each more sublime than the last, with different collar and breastplate designs, lengths and volumes.

Sign of personalityOn other podiums, the shirt comes in multiple versions, shortened under the chest by Pyer Moss or lengthened at the knees for a plethora of others (Altuzarra, Chloé, Nina Ricci and Off-White). Its width becomes maximum and its composition, woven with organic cotton, is made by . Elsewhere still, her cuffs are extended by fringes ( ); a patch pocket is cut in a contrasting fabric ( ); tulle covers her sleeve heads like a leg (Lutz Huelle); her breastplate is flounced and her seams loose ( ), sections such as a pair of extra arms are knotted on the chest like a sweater on the shoulders ( ), or a drapery of couture spirit heckles her fronts at Patou, a venerable French house that is re-launching itself in ready-to-wear after some thirty years of inactivity in fashion.Guillaume Henry, its new artistic director, wouldn’t have laid the foundations for a daytime dressing room without offering a shirt. “This garment is at the centre of my wardrobe, whatever house I’ve been in,” observes the Frenchman, who was previously in charge of Nina Ricci’s style and . “Unlike men who buy and put it on most of the time without thinking, like a uniform, a woman never puts on a shirt by chance. It’s a piece that can reveal as well as hide her personality. The way it is worn also tells you about the mood of the day. Depending on whether it is starched, nickel-plated or not Ironed, buttoned up to the collar or left open, sleeves rolled up, waist tied, outside or inside the pants, a girl will look austere, relaxed, pinched, charming, strict, seductive… “A dress language that the cinema has often used to reinforce roles, since the boys appropriated this man’s clothing in the Roaring Twenties. When it’s not the actresses themselves – from Marlene Dietrich to Julia Roberts, Greta Garbo, Ingrid Bergman, Romy Schneider, CharlotteRampling, Kim Basinger… – but the actresses themselves. – who have adopted him in the city to camp a personal, neutral and elegant look, off the stage and in his various costumes

For the summer of 2020, the designers have convened a wide range of characters. There are Anthony Vaccarello’s amazons for , who run with their throats stretched out to the waist, with micro shorts and boots as their only accessories; Maria Grazia Chiuri’s field beauties for , who step forward in long-sleeved, lavender blouses with lots of coverage; and, last but not least, Donatella Versace’s business women, wearing striped blue-necked shirts slipped under their straight dresses. Margaret Howell caricatures this power dressing symbol by adding a tie. The London designer never changes the original cut too much. It’s only natural, she started designing men’s shirts exactly fifty years ago, before extending the activity to the other sex. “Le Parisien Charles Sebline tells more or less the same story about his label of the same name, which has been targeting dandies since February 2019. Sebline admits that he gave his Bunny shirt to Cate Blanchett and UmaThurman, whose photos he published on Instagram. On the other hand, Valérie Lemercier and a plethora of Parisian girls would have become customers after going to look into the neckline of their companion. “Very soon after the opening of our boutique, women pushed the door,” recalls Cécile Faucheur, stylist at Bourrienne Paris X, who is inspired by vintage men’s cuts. The differences in morphology being important, we ended up fitting them with patterns while keeping the buttoning on the boy’s side.” This now unisex brand has opened a pop-up store at Bon Marché, in Paris (VIIth), as part of ” “, an animation that celebrates the couple, creative pairs and stylistic exchanges, until April 8, 2020 “The shirt is a very important part of our customers’ wardrobe, explains Jennifer Cuvillier, the style director of the Left Bank department store. Some are attached to a label or a designer and want to buy each new version of a specific model. Others like to change and pick out wardrobes that are not necessarily designed for them. In 2015, we convinced Alexandre Mattiussi and Pierre Mahéo [editor’s note: founders of the men’s brands Ami and Officine générale] to redesign their boy’s models in smaller sizes in order to integrate them into our new space called the “men’s wardrobe”. The Figaret blouse has also been available for women since the 1990s. Reviewed and corrected like the entire house style in 2018, this collection has recorded 17% growth over the last six months! It must be said that several recent events have celebrated the men’s shirt, in addition to the trend for catwalks. Notably “A Tribute to Karl: The White Shirt Projet” in September 2019, for which artists, designers, models and Karl Lagerfeld’s close friends imagined a version of the favourite outfit of the couturier who died a year ago. Lagerfeld confided that he owned more than a thousand copies. Similar and immaculate!


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